Tekster om Sømandsstrikken og Sømandsstriberne – The Breton Stripes, op igennem (mode)historien & om mærket, produkternes rejse fra Økologisk uld og bomuld til den endelige sweater og manden bag Le Pirol.
Teksterne blev skrevet på både dansk og engelsk
Text about the Breton-striped shirt, the Sailor Sweater & the Brand Le Pirol.
The history of the Breton-striped Sailor shirt
The classic striped sailor shirt, shirt with sailor stripes, the sailor-striped shirt or Breton-striped shirt, have flourished around in the scene of fashion for centuries.
The shirt with the classic naval / sailor stripes, appeared at the seacoast of France in the late 1850s, and was originally worn by French the navy, as part of the uniform.
And later on the classic sailor stripes appeared on local fishermen, yachtsmen and others enjoying the seaside-life – while wearing a shirt covered in stripes.
Starting of as humble design of stripes, that was initially based on a design including: 20 navy blue stripes, each one 10 millimeters wide and spaced 20 millimeters apart,
The design, since became know as the Breton Stripe with deep relations with the soldiers of the navy in Brittany, in the north of France.
And according to myth, the number of stripes of the jersey, were to match the number of Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte’s victories in battle.
Since then, the classic naval/ sailor stripes have been worn by the well-known artist and painter Pablo Picasso and the french fashion designer Coco Chanel, who also introduced the classic striped shirt in women’s fashion in 1917, by taking inspiration from her friend Pablo Picasso and the fishermen from the very same seaside of France.
Decades later, the sailor sweater / sailor stripes resurfaced – first on the shoulders on one of the most avantgarde artists of his time, Andy Warhol, who wore it at the opening of his art studio, The Factory in the early 1960s and where photographed, on a fire escape staircase, dressed in the iconic sailor stripes.
An later on by the french fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier, who in 1983, reinvigorated the Breton stripe once again, when introducing his La Mariniére – his first prêt-á-porter (ready to wear red.) collection for men.
And today, it is associated with sustainability and organic cotton, as well as Danish design and clothing MADE IN DENMARK.
The history of the Sailor-Sweater
The sailor’s attire, has changed in a significant matter, during the past few centuries, regardless if we are talking about the sailor with relations to the Navy or the sailor who went at sea to fish.
And especially the local fisherman, with his characteristic sailor-sweater/sailor’s or fisherman’s knit has in recent decades and even the last century, changed his attire and the characteristic sailor-sweater/sailor’s or fisherman’s knit, had made it’s way into the Danish fashion scene.
The sailor-sweater, was originally created to withstand winds and weather at sea and has over time, worn by both the sailor with realtions to the navy and the fisherman, who went at sea to fish.
The first editions of the sailor-sweater appeared around the year 1600 and originate from the Aran-sweater, with roots in the northern part of the Atlantic Ocean, where it can be traced back to England, Scotland and Iceland, based on craftsmanship and tradition of patterns.
The characteristic sailor-sweater/sailor’s or fisherman’s knit, is characterized by it’s special knitting technique, craftsmanship and tradition of patterns, which was made to make the sailor sweater more resistant to the sea’s often relentless wind and weather.
And from the beginning, the sweater was created exclusively from fine wool, which in several ways also brought the sustainable part into play, from the beginning.
From the wool of the sheep to the fact, that the sweater was knitted by hand, frem the very beginning.
Since then, the sailor sweater/knit has been created in several versions, where each pattern has it’s own meaning, associated with origins and traditions.
The classic sailor sweater, characterized by the knitted knobs or bubbles, placed across the chest, back and often sleeves, is created by a classic sailor knitting technique that originated in Scotland in the 1890s, where in it’s time, protected the local fishermen from the harsh cold and water at sea.
In the 1920s, this sailor sweater appeared in Denmark, first among local fishermen and later the more fashion, outdoor life and quality-conscious admires, have devoted themselves to the sailor sweater. From the 1970’s until today.
To this day, the sailor sweater, is still associated with the sailor with relations to the navy and / or the strong and hardworking fisherman who should be able to stay dry and warm while fishing.
But also with sustainability, organic wool and cotton, Danish design and clothing MADE IN DENMARK, that withstands weather and wind and season after season.
Screenshots fra mit arbejde med tekster på både dansk og engelsk for det danske bæredygtige mærke Le Pirol, med designeren Morten Underbjerg bag. / Screenshots from my work for the Danish Fashion brand Le Pirol, with Designer Morten Underbjerg.
